❄️ Winter in Sweden: what tourists can really expect in December and January

🎯 Why bother analysing the Swedish winter?

Many people imagine the Swedish winter as something between ‘minus forty every day’ and ‘eternal night where you can't see anything’. In reality, it's much calmer — and at the same time more complicated. It's not just the temperature that matters here, but also the humidity, wind, daylight hours and how the Swedes themselves adapt their lives to it.

This article is for those who are going to Sweden for a short winter holiday, planning to live here in December–January, or dreaming of the northern lights, cottages in the snow and ‘real’ Scandinavian cosiness. We won't paint an idealised picture, but will honestly tell you what to expect from the weather, light and mood in different parts of the country.

The main idea is simple: winter in Sweden is not about ‘terrible cold’ but about a special rhythm. The daylight hours are short, the air can be damp and piercing, but that is precisely why lights, candles, warm light from windows, good jackets and small pleasures like fika. Once you understand this logic, it's much easier to choose the right clothes, route and mood — and not be disappointed when you arrive.

🗺 The big picture: a long country, different winters

One of the main tricks of the Swedish winter is that the country is very long. What you see in Malmö in the south, Stockholm in the centre and Lapland in the north is like three different versions of the same winter.

• Malmö and the south are milder, with more wind and rain than ‘picture-perfect’ snow. Temperatures are often around zero, with periods of wet snow and grey skies.
• Stockholm and the centre are more ‘wintery’: temperatures range from slightly below zero to a slight thaw, with snow falling and melting, but the chances of seeing white streets are significantly higher.
• Lapland and the north are the real snowy Sweden: stable sub-zero temperatures, lots of snow, dry frost and a completely different, almost Arctic atmosphere.

Added to this is the difference between December and January:

• December is more atmospheric: lights, Christmas markets, Advent, shop windows, music, preparations for Christmas and New Year. The temperature may be milder, but the festive feeling is at its peak.
• January is more like ‘real’ winter:
  • it is often colder and quieter;
  • there are fewer tourists and less hustle and bustle;
  • there is more ‘normal life’ for the locals;
  • accommodation and ticket prices are often lower after the New Year peak.

The easiest way to think about it is this: December is for atmosphere and lights, January is for winter reality and a more measured, local Sweden.

🌡 Temperature and precipitation: what the thermometer shows in practice

Let's start with some guidelines, without ‘-37 every night’. In reality, winter in Sweden looks something like this:

• South (Malmö, Skåne)
• Most often around zero: approximately –3 to +5 °C. Windy and humid, often with rain or wet snow, snow may fall and then melt quickly.
• Centre (Stockholm, Uppsala)
• In winter, the temperature is more often around a slight minus: from -7 to +2 °C. Some weeks there is snow and a slight frost, others there is a thaw and slush. In December, the weather is more ‘changeable’, in January the cold is usually more stable.
• North (Umeå, Luleå, Kiruna and above) This is where you will find real winter: sub-zero temperatures are the norm, ranging from approximately –10 to –20 °C, sometimes lower. The air is dry, the snow lies in a stable layer, there is less slush and more ‘crisp’ frost.

It is important to understand not only the numbers, but also how they feel.

• At –3 °C by the water, with wind and high humidity, it can feel much colder: it is damp, chilly, and you want to get to a café as soon as possible.
• At –10 °C in the dry air of the north, you may feel more comfortable if you are dressed properly: the air is fresh, the snow crunches, but it doesn't ‘cut’ your face as much.

In terms of precipitation, the picture is roughly as follows:

• December is a month of surprises: in southern and central Sweden, rain, wet snow and short periods of snow are possible. In the north, there is already a good covering of snow.
• January is usually more wintery and stable:
  • in the centre and north, there is a higher chance of steady snow and frost;
  • in the south, rain and slush are still possible, but severe frosts are still rare.

In short: in Sweden in winter, it is not so much the frost that is scary, but the dampness and wind. A good windproof jacket, waterproof shoes and several layers of clothing are often more important than ‘very warm but windproof’ items.

🌌 Daylight hours: how much ‘darkness’ is there really?

In the Swedish winter, it is not the temperature that is most frightening, but the short daylight hours. But it's useful to get a more accurate picture — it's not as catastrophic as the myths would have you believe.

Examples by city

Stockholm

• At the end of December, daylight hours are short: approximately 5–6 hours of ‘conditional daylight’.
  • Morning: it gets light around 8:30–9:00.
  • Evening: it starts to get dark rapidly around 14:30–15:00.
• In January, it gets noticeably better: the days gradually get longer, and by the end of the month, there is significantly more daylight.

Gothenburg

• Similar to Stockholm, but slightly brighter and longer due to its latitude.
• In December, it is also around 6 hours of daylight, but a couple of dozen minutes longer than in the capital.
• In January, the difference with the south and the centre is no longer so important: you still feel that the day starts earlier and ends later than during Christmas week.

North (Kiruna, Luleå and above)

• Luleå: the day is very short, but the sun still appears above the horizon — a few hours of low, cold light.
• Kiruna and the area above the Arctic Circle: December is the period of the polar night, when the sun does not rise above the horizon at all. But that does not mean that it is completely dark 24/7:
  • there is a ‘twilight day’ with soft blue/purple light;
  • snow and lights strongly illuminate everything around;
  • the sky can be very beautiful — from pink-blue to almost cosmic, plus there is a chance to see the northern lights.

How the polar night feels

The polar night is not a ‘black bag’, but rather very long twilight.

• It doesn't get really bright during the day, but there is a period of soft, diffused light.
• It gets dark early in the evening, but thanks to the snow and lights, the city and houses do not look like they have fallen into a black hole.
• The main feeling is a ‘different rhythm’: you want to be indoors more, appreciate every hour outside and focus on comfort.

How to adapt to this

Swedes live with this every year, and they have their own ‘life hacks’:

• Light at home. Lots of spotlights, floor lamps, garlands, candles, candlesticks in the windows — these are both decoration and psychotherapy.
• Lamps and vitamins. Many people use daylight lamps and regularly take vitamin D (as prescribed by a doctor or as recommended) to make it easier to cope with the lack of sun.
• The habit of going outside during the day. Even if the days are short, people try to:
  • go outside for their lunch break;
  • take a walk on their day off during daylight hours;
  • ‘catch’ daylight instead of sitting indoors all the time.

For tourists, the main conclusion is this:

• Yes, there is little sun in Sweden in winter, especially in December.
• But this is compensated for by the lights, the light in the windows, the cosy interiors and the fact that everything around also adjusts its rhythm to this daylight. If you don't wait for the bright midday sun, but accept the logic of ‘short daylight + long cosy evening’, the winter darkness is no longer perceived as an enemy, but as part of the atmosphere.

🧥 How to dress: a system of layers instead of ‘one super coat’

The main secret of Swedish winter clothing is not in one ‘mega coat’, but in layers that can be added or removed depending on the situation. This makes it easier to survive both wet zero degrees and dry minus degrees.

The ‘layer cake’ principle

1. Base layer
2. This is what is closest to the body:
   • thermal underwear or a thin wool/synthetic T-shirt and long-sleeved top;
   • the task is to wick moisture away from the body, not just to keep it warm.

1. Warm middle layer
2. This is what keeps you warm:
   • a wool or fleece jumper;
   • you can wear two thinner layers instead of one thick one.

1. Outer layer
2. Protection from wind and moisture:
   • a jacket or parka with good wind protection;
   • preferably with a hood that really covers your head and neck;
   • for the north, it is better to have a long jacket that reaches the middle of the thigh or lower.

Footwear

• Non-slip soles are critical, especially if you encounter ice or packed snow.
• It is better to have warm boots that do not get wet: leather/membrane + insulation.
• Warm socks (wool or wool blend). In the north, you can wear thin socks + wool socks on top.
• For Lapland and snow activities, it is sometimes convenient to have removable spikes/shoe covers.

Accessories

• A hat that covers your ears.
• Scarf or buff to cover your neck and part of your face in windy conditions.
• Gloves or mittens (mittens are warmer in severe sub-zero temperatures).
• For the north, you can take thermal packs for your hands and feet — a small bonus for comfort during long walks and trips on snowmobiles/sledges.

Mini checklist: if you are just walking around the city

Suitable for Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö in December–January, without extreme activities:

• Thermal underwear (or just a warm T-shirt/long-sleeved top if you don't feel the cold).
• Sweater or fleece.
• Warm jacket with a hood, preferably windproof.
• Jeans or thick trousers + thin thermal trousers underneath if desired.
• Winter boots that are stable on ice/slush.
• Hat, scarf/buff, gloves.

This is enough to walk around the city, go to cafes and shops, ride ferries and not think about how cold you are.

Mini checklist: if you are travelling to Lapland or the north

For Kiruna, Luleå, northern regions, especially if you are planning to see the northern lights, stay in cabins and enjoy active winter entertainment:

• Good thermal underwear (preferably wool or high-quality synthetics).
• A warm jumper/fleece + an extra layer if it's really cold.
• A thick winter jacket/parka with wind protection, preferably a long one.
• Warm trousers (or regular trousers + thermal trousers, with insulated trousers on top if you're spending a lot of time outside).
• Heavy winter boots designed for cold weather, plus two layers of socks.
• Warm hat, buff/balaclava, mittens or gloves + mittens on top.
• Optional: studs for shoes, thermal packs for hands and feet.

General principle: it's better to take one extra layer that you can take off than to sit and freeze. Indoors in Sweden are usually warm, so it's important to be able to ‘adjust’ your clothing rather than relying on a single super jacket.

🏙 City winter: Stockholm, Gothenburg, Malmö in December–January

In Sweden's big cities, winter feels less like ‘surviving the cold’ and more like a series of lights, shop windows, cafés and short walks between warm rooms. But December and January are noticeably different in mood.

December: lights and festive rhythm

In December, Stockholm, Gothenburg and Malmö work to create the maximum ‘atmosphere’:

• garlands, facades and trees along the streets are lit up in the city centre;
• shop windows are transformed into small stages with winter decorations;
• Christmas markets open in squares and old quarters, offering mulled wine, baked goods and handmade souvenirs.

December is the perfect time for:

• long sessions in cafés and restaurants (often with seasonal menus);
• visiting museums, galleries and indoor markets — the weather can be changeable, but it's always warm inside;
• strolling through historic neighbourhoods while the lights and decorations are at their peak.

The downside is that it's high season. The closer it gets to Christmas, the more people there are in shops and on the streets, the higher the prices for accommodation, and the harder it is to ‘just walk in anywhere without a reservation’.

January: quieter, cooler, but more pleasant in its own way

After the New Year, the rhythm changes noticeably:

• there are fewer tourists, life switches to ‘locals living their winter’ mode;
• sales start — if you need to shop, January gives you more chances to find good deals in a relaxed atmosphere;
• the weather is often a little harsher: there is a greater chance of real frost and snow, and less chance of ‘New Year's rain’.

This is a good time if you want to:

• see cities without the holiday crowds;
• experience a more ‘authentic’ Swedish everyday life;
• spend less on accommodation and tickets than during the Christmas weeks.

What to do if it rains or snows

This happens regularly in cities, especially in the south and in December, but that's no reason to cancel your trip:

• Plan a route around ‘warm spots’:
• café → museum → indoor market → another café → evening restaurant.
• Pick a couple of cosy places in each city in advance where you can ‘hide’ for an hour or two: coffee shops, libraries, shopping malls, food courts, concept stores.
• Use bad weather as an excuse to visit places you don't usually get around to in the summer:
  • large museums;
  • contemporary galleries;
  • aquariums, technology centres, interactive exhibitions.

The main life hack for urban winter in Sweden is not to try to spend the whole day outside, but to alternate between short walks and warm stops. Then even wet snow and wind become not a problem, but simply the backdrop for an urban winter story.

🌲 Nature and the north: Lapland, cabins and the northern lights

Winter in northern Sweden is a different universe compared to Stockholm and the south. Here, winter is not a pretence:

• the snow lies in a stable layer and does not turn into slush after a day;
• the frost is dry, the air crisp and clear;
• sounds are muffled, and often there is nothing but forest, mountains and rare lights around.

If you want that ‘real winter’ that is depicted in children's books, Lapland and the northern regions are the place to go.

Northern lights: when and under what conditions

Sweden is one of the countries where you can actually see the Northern Lights, but it's not something you can turn on at will. It's important to accept right away that no one can give you any guarantees, only a chance, which increases if:

• you are travelling north (Kiruna, Abisko and the surrounding area, other areas above the Arctic Circle);
• your trip lasts at least 3-4 nights, and preferably longer — the more nights, the higher the probability of ‘catching the window’;
• the weather is on your side: you need a relatively clear or at least partially clear night without continuous cloud cover;
• you are willing to venture far from bright lights: the darker it is around you, the better you can see the corona in the sky.

Sometimes the aurora appears as a soft, green ‘cloud’, sometimes as dynamic ribbons across the sky. Either way, it's an experience that many are willing to freeze in the snow for an extra hour to see.

Cottages and winter activities

Northern Sweden is literally made for the ‘cottage + winter’ scenario:

• cosy cottages and cabins in the forest or by the lake, often with a fireplace and panoramic windows;
• sleigh rides, dog or reindeer sledding;
• snowmobile trips;
• snowshoeing, skiing, night-time ‘hunts’ for the Northern Lights;
• ice swimming and contrasting it with a warm sauna — if you like such experiments.

You can often book package tours: accommodation + several activities, which is convenient if you don't want to put everything together yourself.

Who should choose the north, and who should stay in the city and in the south

The northern scenario is especially suitable for those who:

• dream of real snow and frost, rather than grey December rain;
• wants to change the scenery as much as possible and ‘switch off’ from the hustle and bustle of the city;
• is prepared for the fact that entertainment is not on every corner — you need to book activities and plan ahead.

It is better to stick to Stockholm and the south if:

• you don't tolerate cold weather and long dark evenings well;
• you want more museums, coffee shops, restaurants and ‘urban structure’ than nature;
• this is your first winter trip and you want to ‘soak up the atmosphere’ rather than immediately diving into the extreme version of winter.

The ideal option for many is a combination: a couple of days in the capital and a few more in the north. This way, you will have time to stroll through the city lights and breathe in that northern air, where the snow crunches and the green sky may light up above your head.

💭 Mood and rhythm of life in winter

Swedish winter is not only about the weather and daylight hours, but also about how people adapt to it. Hence the love of candles, soft lighting and textiles — this is not just an ‘Instagram style’, but a perfectly viable way to make the dark months more bearable.

Homes and cafés become a little more similar to each other in winter:

• lots of warm spot lighting, almost no bright ‘hospital’ lamps;
• candles on tables, candlesticks in windows, garlands;
• blankets, cushions, heavy curtains, carpets — everything that visually and physically adds to the feeling of ‘even if there's a storm outside, it's nice here.’

The rhythm of life also changes:

• people spend more time at home or with close friends and family;
• People appreciate fika — coffee breaks with something tasty and conversation.
• Meetings are more often planned in advance, with fewer spontaneous ‘let's go somewhere now’ moments.
• Long walks in the light, and in the evening — TV series, books, board games, and the cosiness of home.

At first, tourists in this rhythm may think, ‘Oh, everything is dark and a little gloomy,’ especially if they arrive straight from a bright southern city. But this feeling changes significantly if:

• you make friends with the light — choose cafes with warm interiors, light candles in your apartment, make the light soft, not just overhead;
• you incorporate small rituals: a morning walk in the daylight, an afternoon fika, an evening book or film, dinner in a cosy place;
• you plan your day so that you make sure to go outside during the day, even for half an hour — your brain is very grateful for any natural light;
• Don't expect winter to be a ‘never-ending holiday,’ but see it as a time to slow down, take a break, and see the country at a different pace.

If you accept this winter rhythm, Sweden ceases to seem ‘dark and dreary’ and begins to feel like a place where people know how to live through the cold season with care — not ignoring it, but turning it into a separate mood.

🚶 Safety and comfort: ice, roads, health

Everything is quite organised in Sweden in winter, but it's better to think about basic safety issues in advance — then winter will be about beauty, not stress.

Black ice and slippery paths

Even if the streets are gritted, there are still slippery areas:

• choose shoes with a textured, non-slip sole;
• for northern regions and long walks, you can get removable spikes/covers for your boots;
• walk a little slower than usual, paying special attention to stairs, pavements near water and paths in parks.

If you are not used to winter, just remember the rule: ‘better to be careful and slow than impressive but bruised’.

Public transport in winter

Sweden is very dependent on public transport, so they try to keep it running all year round. In winter:

• trains, buses, trams and the underground usually run on schedule;
• heavy snowfall or icy conditions may cause delays and cancellations, especially on intercity trains and buses;
• it is always worth checking the current status of the route in the app or on the carrier's website, especially if you have a connection or a flight.

It is useful to allow a little extra time if you are travelling to the airport or an important event.

Health: air, skin, colds

In winter, the combination of cold, wind and dry indoor air can take its toll:

• your skin and lips can become very dry, especially in the north: take lip balm and a basic moisturising cream with you;
• the contrast between the cold outside and the warm, dry air inside can irritate your mucous membranes — you can use saline nasal sprays;
• this is the season for colds, so it's a good idea to bring your usual remedies for sore throats, runny noses and fever;
• Many locals take vitamin D in winter on the recommendation of doctors — you should also discuss this with your doctor before travelling, if necessary.

Face masks, antiseptic, wet wipes — the same as in any winter season in a big city.

Insurance and preparation before travelling

The minimum you should have:

• medical insurance covering treatment abroad and, if possible, winter activities (if you plan to go skiing, snowmobiling, dog sledding, etc., check the terms and conditions separately);
• copies of documents and emergency service numbers (in Sweden — 112);
• lists of your regular medications and a small supply with you if you take something regularly;
• offline maps and your accommodation address saved in your phone in advance.

If you have all this covered, you will feel much calmer: then ice, snow and short days will simply be part of the winter atmosphere, rather than a cause for concern.

💰 Budget: when it's more expensive, when it's cheaper

Winter trips to Sweden have a very clear price cycle, and it's better to take this into account at the dream stage rather than when paying for a hotel.

December: beautiful, festive, but more expensive

The weeks before Christmas and New Year are particularly expensive:

• accommodation in Stockholm, Gothenburg, the north and ‘picture-postcard’ locations increases in price;
• airline tickets and trains for popular dates sell out faster and are more expensive;
• Activities (tours to Lapland, sleigh rides, special Christmas programmes) are best booked in advance as places are limited.

If you want to experience the lights, fairs and festive hustle and bustle to the fullest, you will have to accept that this is the high season in terms of both prices and crowds.

January: quieter, colder, but cheaper

After the first week of January, the picture changes:

• there are fewer tourists, and accommodation prices often go down;
• tickets for many dates are more reasonable than during the Christmas period;
• you can enjoy shopping and cafés in the cities without the pre-New Year crowds.

Cons:

• slightly colder and darker, especially at the beginning of the month;
• less of a ‘Christmas fairy tale’ — some of the decorations are already being taken down, the fairs are closing, and the focus is shifting from the holidays to everyday life.

How to choose the right balance between price and atmosphere

As a rule of thumb, you can use the following guidelines:

• If the atmosphere (lights, markets, music, the ‘holiday feeling’) is more important to you and you are willing to pay more, choose December, but book everything in advance.
• If peace and quiet and budget are more important to you, and you want to see the country without the crowds, experience a real winter and take advantage of the sales, then consider January after the first week.

The golden mean for many is to come at the junction: late December + early January. Then you can catch both the festive atmosphere and the quieter, cheaper days — but this option requires especially early planning and booking.

👨‍👩‍👧‍👦 Who will enjoy a winter trip, and who is better off choosing other seasons

Winter in Sweden is not a universal ‘must have’ for everyone. For some, December–January is the ultimate “wow” experience, while for others it is ‘beautiful, but a bit heavy’.

For whom is winter a definite ‘yes, we'll take it’?

Winter is especially suitable if you:

• love cosiness, lights and an intimate atmosphere, not just beaches and open terraces;
• enjoy winter sports and activities: skiing, sledging, walking in the snow, dog sledding, snowmobiling;
• dream of seeing the northern lights and are willing to put up with the cold and dark evenings for it;
• are comfortable with the idea that part of your plans will be ‘go for a walk → sit in a café → go for another short walk’.

If you like to slow down and appreciate the atmosphere as much as the weather, winter in Sweden is perfect for you.

Who might find it difficult

A winter trip may cause discomfort if:

• you find darkness and dampness very difficult to tolerate — both physically and mentally;
• you expect your trip to be full of action and celebrations every day: concerts, street shows, parties until dawn;
• for you, a holiday means maximum sun and minimum layers of clothing.

In this case, it may be better to start your acquaintance with Sweden in spring, summer or early autumn, and then, if you wish, return in winter.

How to adapt a winter trip for children

Winter in Sweden can also be comfortable with children — if you consider a couple of things:

• Prams and getting around.
• There are many ramps and lifts in cities, but:
  • in snow and slush, a sturdy pram with good wheels is more convenient than the lightest stroller;
  • in Lapland, it is not always convenient to take a pram in the snow — slings, sledges and baby carriers (depending on age) will come in handy there.
• Clothing.
• Children need the same ‘layered cake’ as adults, only even more carefully:
  • warm thermal underwear, a fleece layer, a waterproof jumpsuit;
  • mittens, a warm hat, a scarf/buff;
  • warm, lightweight shoes that can be quickly taken off/put on.
• Schedule.
  • It is better not to plan an endless ‘quest for impressions’;
  • alternate walks and breaks in the warmth with snacks, games, and the opportunity to just lie down/sit;
  • Don't overload every day with activities: one day — a fair and a museum, another — a short walk and a cosy day ‘at home’.

If you treat your winter trip as a time to slow down, wrap up warm and look at the lights, rather than ‘galloping around all the sights’, then both adults and children can have a very comfortable time in Sweden in December–January.

🔚 How to fall in love with the Swedish winter

Winter in Sweden is not about ‘extreme cold and eternal night’, but about a special rhythm: short days, soft light, humid air, lots of lights and the habit of making cosiness out of literally everything. If you perceive it as an enemy, it will seem dark, damp and ‘nothing happens’. If you see it as a season with its own rules, it becomes much easier and even enjoyable.

The traveller's task here is not to ‘survive the cold,’ but to tune in to the local way of life:

• don't be afraid of the dark, but ‘befriend’ it with lamps, candles, warm light and little rituals;
• choose your own winter format — a city with lights, the north with snow and glare, or a combined route;
• think about your clothes and a rough plan in advance so that when you're there, you don't have to think about how wet your shoes are, but where to go for fika and where to best watch the lights.

When you accept that the Swedish winter is not a system failure, but a special version of it, it becomes easier: the darkness becomes a backdrop for the lights, the cold becomes a reason to wrap yourself in a scarf and go to a café, and December–January becomes a time when the country reveals its other, very cosy side.